Thursday, October 28, 2010

Crete: day 8

We had another half day in Chania before picking up our rental car. And how did we spend that time? Eating, talking about eating, then eating again. The night before (at dinner) we'd talked with some fellow travelers (sounds better than tourists) who recommended the restaurant Portes. The food and service were excellent, and we loved the tables lining both sides of a pedestrian street.

In Chania there are tiers of restaurants. Waterfront places tend to be more touristy and expensive, although the food can be good. A few streets back from the harbor you'll find open air restaurants tucked into ruined buildings or simply set up in the streets. These places were generally smaller with very individual personalities. They were our favorites and Portes was one of them.

At 3 pm we picked up our rental car and headed for Milia.

Ten years ago we'd driven to Milia because my mother thought it sounded interesting: an eco-tourist spot built on the ruins of an abandoned village. We walked around only briefly but it made an impression.

Everything about Milia appealed to me: the mountain scenery, the lack of electronica, the native materials used to construct the houses, the emphasis on local foods, the energy self-sufficiency. I can't describe the place without gushing, and even then, I don't do it justice. Please look through their website. It is one of the most spectacular and unusual places I have ever been, and since we've been home I've spent at least part of every day thinking about how I can return.

There will be time tomorrow to tell you how we spent our days: unplugged and well fed. Here's a photo essay of our first evening:

our stone house

the terrace in front of our house

with a mountain view

wine, beer, and Chicken Foot

Joe brought his travel guitar. I was hoping he would.

the two youngest cats

The dining room is lit only by candlelight.

On the short walk back to our rooms, we could see the clouds of the Milky Way.

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At October 29, 2010 at 7:29 AM , Anonymous Leda Meredith said...

Why do I have a feeling that Milia is should be on my must-see list?

At October 29, 2010 at 10:43 AM , Anonymous Zoe said...

Wow - this place looks magical!

At October 29, 2010 at 2:41 PM , Blogger Mum said...

I knew I was a genius when I brought you here the first time.

At October 29, 2010 at 7:36 PM , Blogger Marie said...

PS M looks really good with a beard!...not everyone does (but I'm partial to some stubble.

At October 30, 2010 at 6:32 PM , Blogger SaraGardens said...

As you know, I'm already petitioning the UN to make Milia a world-heritage site, and I haven't even been there yet...

And I must wholeheartedly agree with Marie! MM is looking very handsome in all the pictures - perhaps even getting handsomer as the trip goes on...


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